Posts Tagged ‘atomos

09
Dec
11

Panasonic releases terrific new 25p GH2 firmware!

UPDATE: on dvxuser.net, user PDR has reported that HDMI recording is still not possible from the GH2 without following the AviSynth workflow.

Panasonic (so not a “hacker”) has released new firmware for the Panasonic Lumix GH2, on december 7th 2011.

This firmware has some very interesting new features that render the “hacks” available less interesting for the majority of users.

The most important new features for video shooters include:

  • better noise reduction algorithm
  • 25P, 25P and 30P frame-rates
  • HDMI output rumoured to be  un-crippled and fit for external recording (not tested yet!)
  • new HIGH BITRATE film mode that records at 24Mbps
  • improved video AF performance

If it’s really true that we can record a un-crippled HDMI signal with this firmware update, that can be played back and edited without going through that time-consuming Avisynth workflow, then i’d be absolutely flabbergasted and as happy as a monkey with the key to the banana plantation…

I’ve gone through the easy firmware update and that went like a breeze. Indeed, some new settings to play with.

My Ninja recorder is hired out ’til january 2012, so i can not test this at the moment. I hope that other Ninja or Blackmagic users out there can try things out and post their results here!

Here is the Panasonic download page: http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/download/index.html

Cheers!

Martin Beek

19
Oct
11

For sale: hardly used Panasonic AF101 plus Atomos Ninja recorder

Update: SOLD

 

 

We are selling one (the newest) of our two Panasonic camera bodies; this one including brand new Atomos Ninja recorder.

The AF101 doesn’t need further introduction i guess, but here is an English link to the page of the shop where this camera has been purchased in february 2011.
Comes with full extended warranty; still over 2 years. Further one extra large battery, nikon lens adapter, Barry Green’s AF101 book, original box and manuals.

The Atomos Ninja is a 10 bit ProresHQ recorder that flawlessly records from the AF101’s HDMI output. It comes with the original hardcase, two batteries and charger. See http://www.atomos.com . This unit has only be used for about an hour or two.

See Dutch markteplace ad here: http://audio-tv-foto.marktplaats.nl/professionele-audio-tv-en-video-apparatuur/489811187-panasonic-af101-met-nikon-adapter-en-atomos-ninja-recorder.html

Camera has NEVER been used outdoors and only shot limited hours for test purposes and one studio shoot.

Asking price is around 4000 euros for both camera and ninja. Please feel free to make a bid. Location of object: the Netherlands.

Negotiable: additional Shoot35 baseplate and rods, and RedrockMicro full options mattebox! Bid!
Mail me on m.beek at marvelsfilm dot com
Call me on +31646570853 (GMT evening hours)
Martin

08
Aug
11

AF101 / AF100 vs GH2 vs ? – Stop moaning, Start shooting!

af100 af101 cinematized ssv

Courtesy of Shooting Star Video

When i bought a demo Panasonic AF101 two weeks ago, and tweeted about it, i received an unexpected number of negative responses. Not that the responses were negative as-such, but were mainly providing me with links that showed me that i’d made the wrong choice. People were eager to point out that the AF101 sucks and that there are much better cameras on the market today. I had to endure watching crazy comparisons with Red and Sony F3 cameras (that cost 4 times the price of an AF101) and even with the Canon 5D and 7D, in order to learn that the Panasonic AF101 is probably even worse a camera than the 900 euro Panasonic GH2.

But thank you all, i knew all that the moment i bought this camera. Before i get into detail about the possible shortcomings, and explaining why i still went for this camera,  let’s see what some shooters have found testing the AF101. I’ve included links to the discussions.

 

  • bad handling of highlights, color channels burn out easily and give these parts a nasty yellow hue – link – link
  • “plastic-looking” skintones when not correctly exposed (see the point above) – link – link
  • noisy, and the noise is linearly distributed along the gamma curve; so: noise everywhere – link – link
  • the BBC has tested this camera thoroughly and came to the conclusion that the sensor sucks with less than 1300 lines and a lot of distortion – link
  • it has an old HVX type of sensor and not the new GH2 type generation; it is not suitable for taking stills or according to some, not even suitable for shooting HD video
  •  it is a commercial hype; a cheap DSLR in a videocam housing and the rest is a lot of marketing – link
  • the affordable Panasonic GH2 is better than the much more expensive AF101 – link
If you read the articles carefully, including the comments, you learn that 33% of all “problems” can be solved by properly exposing and dialing down the detail settings. Another 33% of the camera-bashing is delivered by people that have never used the camera themselves and judge quality based on Vimeo movies. The final 33% base their judgement on comparing the camera with the Sony F3, a camera four times as expensive as the AF101.
Did i start worrying after reading all the provided “thumbs down” links? Well, to be honest…. a bit…
I was very happy and even a little surprised to see that the camera performed surprisingly well in The Great Zacuto Camera Shootout 2011, episode II
When i finally had the chance to play with the camera for a few days, i was able to redeem all the bullshit about this camera. When properly set up, using the flattest picture profile, with “Detail” AND “Coring” dialed down all the way (-6 or -7), properly exposed using the great waveform monitor, this camera DELIVERS! With the right lens (Voigtlander Nokton 24/0.95 or better) and maybe occasionally underexposing 1/2 to 1 stop, you get your filmic quality.
Oh, yeah… Since i own both the GH2 and the AF101, i can tell you that the whole “The GH2 is better than the AF101” is another myth, plugged by GH2 fanboys, and regularly by people not even owning either one of these cameras. They can hardly be compared, specially if the comparison is done based on charts. The AF101 sensor works in a totally different manner. It derives perceptual detail in a totally different and also inventive manner compared to the GH2 (using aliasing as a vehicle). The perceptual detail of the GH2 could look better when shooting charts, but the GH2 is using straight-forward electronic detail-enhancing that you can’t switch off AND uses a totally different way of rendering the picture from chip data.
Recording from the HDMI output using the Atomos Ninja recorder delivers great images from both the GH2 and AF101, but they are different! I can’t say that one is better that the other, just different.
My personal feeling is, that the GH2 has smooth roll-off of highlights by using a kind of auto-knee mechanism. It protects the highlights, but only up to 100-ire! This is a pure consumer camera that performs best as a run-and-gun camera. The AF101 has several controls for protecting the highlights, as well as a 110-ire range! Considering this, the GH2 has less latitude than the AF101 when both are exposed “to the right”; the GH2 up to 100-ire and the AF101 to 110-ire (“super-white”). The AF101 is not a consumer camera, simply because it’s too complex for most amateur users.
Out of the box, the AF101 is NOT a run-and-gun camera at all; it will produce video-like images, instead of the GH2. The AF101 is a video camera, the GH2 is a photo camera. At least, out of the box that is.
People who don’t understand how waveform-monitors, picture styles, matrices, gammas and knees work, should not even consider testing or reviewing the AF101, and keep their comments to themselves…
To loosely quote Philip Bloom: stop shooting charts, start shooting people!
Fort those interested. I’ll publish our AF101 settings in the following post.
Cheers!
Martin Beek
Twitter: @martinbeek
15
Jul
11

GH2 HDMI output recorded with Atomos NINJA

Ninja Graffiti by Martin Beek / http://www.marvelsfilm.com

Recorded at the annual Graffiti event in downtown Eindhoven (The Netherlands) using the Panasonic GH2 and Atomos Ninja digital recorder. The Ninja is a GREAT sub-1000 euro ProRes422(HQ) HDMI recorder from http://www.atomos.com .

I’ve used the GH2’s Smooth picture profile (all settings on -2 except for color saturation at -1) and Voigtlander Nokton 25mm/f0.95 lens with Fader ND filter. Aperture fixed at f2.8. Mixed 160 and 320 ISO.

Quality of the footage is stunning; it’s a pity that i had to convert it to H.264 to upload to YouTube, plus the extra compression crap that is added during YouTube’s conversion.

You can download the original hires/hi-Q input file (H.264, not the FCP ProRes444) from the Vimeo page at : http://vimeo.com/user6312268/gh2cleanhdmininja

Music: “Yeah Yeah” by “Bodyrox featuring Luciana”. Buy the music here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/yeah-yeah/id211458233

HDMI Ninja-recorder footage was deinterlaced, decrippled and converted to uncompressed 4:2:2 “fcp-ready” footage by using the free AviSynth and FFMpeg tools as described here: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?237584-HDMI-Capture-Problem-SOLVED-AviSynth-RULES! and here: https://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/2011/04/27/gh2-hdmi-recording-avisynth-script-update/

Cheers!

19
Apr
11

Panny GH2 + HDMI + Recorder = BINGO!

UPDATE: Jorgen Escher has made a Quickstart ready-to-run archive. If the instructions below are above your station, don’t feel ashamed to jump to this post by Jorgen.  

!! Warning: ADVANCED ABRACADABRA STUFF AHEAD !!

Much debate has been going on on the web about the feasibility (can it be done) and the quality (is it clean?) of recording from the Panasonic GH2 camera’s HDMI output.

With the release of the Atomos Ninja (a sub 1000$ 4:2:2 Prores field recorder), and of course by using PC capturing cards such as the Black Magic cards, the GH2 HDMI signal can be captured without a problem.
But before you’all start whooping and cheering, let me warn you that – in order to get editable footage – there is a special workflow required.

Let us first look at the workflow before, during and after recording – let’s say “on the set”:

  • Make sure the camera is switched off and connect the HDMI cable to both GH2 and recorder, switch on the GH2 and then switch on the recorder.
  • Select the Cinema 24 mode (24H)
  • I advise to use the Nostalgic picture style with all controls dialed down for flattest picture
  • Switch off the Highlight indication (this is outputted through the HDMI while recording!)
  • Make sure to insert a memorycard since we will be recording HDMI and AVCHD (camera) simultaneously
  • Start the GH2 recording FIRST
  • Now start the recorder
  • Stop the recorder first after the shot
  • Now stop the GH2
If you record the GH2’s externally as described above, your footage will be recorded without signal breaks, frame skips and/or other damage.
Because the LCD of the GH2 (and the HDMI output) use a degraded picture in live view mode, pressing record on the GH2 prior to recording from HDMI is an absolutely must.
If you use the Ninja, you’ll end up with a 4:2:2 Prores (HQ) recording, but – bummer – that’s not what actually arrived at the recorder’s input. The HDMI signal from the  has been described by Barry Green as “screwed up 4:2:0”, but other tests by Jorgen Escher shows that it’s really 4:2:2 that has been deliberately crippled by Panasonic to make the camera less interesting for professional vido use. This “cripple” mainly exists of timing disturbances, applied to both the video timing (“field cadence”) as well as the timing of the separate chroma channels.
Despite everything, HDMI recording eclipses the AVCHD recording in many ways, such as:
  • More detail in shadows (less muddy blacks)
  • No compression artifacts
  • Better overall detail
  • Better color rendition
  • Different noise pattern (finer)
  • Less pronounced solarization (a.k.a. color-banding -> yes, this is an 8 bit camera)
Watch out for this drawback: the GH2 does not output sound on it’s HDMI! So you’ll have to use the sound from the AVCHD recording, or feed sound into your recorder.
But, without any special further processing of our footage, the following artifacts will be immediately noticeable:
  • A double or missing frame “hick-up” approximately every second
  • Red shift (red bleed)
  • Gamma shift (washed out) on mac
  • Sound we have a .7 second delay, throwing mouths out of sync

At first glance, the HDMI recorded footage is absolutely useless and it will scare the hell out of you if directly loaded into an editor.

But here my personal heroes “Ralph B”, “PDR” and “GrgurMG” – senior members of the popular  DVXUser site -come to the rescue!
They have developed a marvelous script for a program called “AviSynth” that will process all your GH2 HDMI footage in 100% usable, editable 4:2:2 footage! All problems solved!
This makes the GH2 + Ninja combo a match made in heaven! Considering that we are talking about a sub-2000$ solution!

The pros of the workflow using the AviSynth solution are:

  • Fixes frame and field timing (cadence) inconstancies
  • Fixes color shifts
  • Fixes gamma issues
  • Fixes sound sync issue
  • Will do conversion to other codecs on the fly
  • If you’re using a Ninja, you want to backup or transfer your footage to another system anyway, so running it through AviSynth does not necessarily means an outrageous complication of your workflow.
  • Batch processing
  • A lot of AviSynth help, information, examples and fora to be found on the web

The cons of the AviSynth route are:

  • It’s a Windows based solution, so it should either run on a Windows PC or in a Virtual PC environment on your mac (e.g. VirtualBox = free). We now use a dedicated cheap Windows7 barebones system for the job.
  • You can not write the processed footage back to ProRes, because there is no PC/Windows ProRes codec that will write files – only read. The solution is to use either the build-in huffyuv lossless codec, Cineform (not free), AVCHD or the Avid DNxHD 4:2:2 codec (free). The latter has a MOV wrapper and can be imported directly in your Mac’s NLE.
  • You will have to download and install several programs and execute one or two by hand – if you’re a real PC novice, this will probably blow your brains out – as for the rest: you’re probably safe.

So, where do i get started?! Here: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?237584-HDMI-Capture-Problem-SOLVED-AviSynth-RULES!

Remember the following important facts about AviSynth:

  • AviSynth is a non-visible running-in-the-background kind of tool, you install it and that’s it
  • You use a standard text editor such as Notepad to write or edit the script. You need to rename the file to have the .avs file extension.
  • The program that executes the script is a batch file that calls another program “called FFMpeg” that takes care of the creation of the output file
  • Do not be alarmed by all this, AviSynth, FFMpeg and the other tools are available with one-click installers and need no further attention when installed.
  • You will find a shopping list below with all download locations and installing instructions

As a Mac FCP user, i have altered the original script in the following way: removed the color correction because i don’t want any detail smoothing and added gamma correction. Here is the script we now use with the Ninja recorder footage:

LoadPlugin("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.6\plugins\QTSource.dll")  # change paths to your plugins location
LoadPlugin("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.6\plugins\TIVTC\TIVTC.dll")
LoadPlugin("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.6\plugins\FDecimate\FDecimate.dll")
QTInput("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.6\PROCESSING09.mov") # change to your input file location
AssumeTFF()
TFM(mchroma=false, pp=5)
FDecimate(threshold=0.5)
delayaudio(.07)
AssumeFPS(24000,1001)

# Chroma Fix - Optional, but highly recommended
FixBrokenChromaUpsampling()
ConvertToYUY2() 
# Mac users gamma correction
ColorYUV(gamma_y=-34, gamma_u=-34, gamma_v=-34)

# end of AviSynth script.
The batchfile i use for passing the AVS scripts (for each MOV file) to ffmpeg/avisynth looks like this:
for %%a in ("*.avs") do ffmpeg -i %%a -vcodec dnxhd -b 175M -an %%~na.mov
pause

Resulting in 175MBit DNxHD MOV files.

Still with me?

What you need to download and install on your Windows PC:

After installation of all the above, edit the script with Notepad or other text editor in such a way that all paths are pointing to the correct folders. You can also copy the necessary DLL files to one Plugins folder of your choice. File extension should be .avs
Finally, create a batch file (.bat) with Notepad or other text editor containing the batch file code above. File extension should be .bat
Run the .bat file. FFMpeg will start in a console window and reports any errors or progress. The resulting file will be named after the .avs script and will reside in the same folder as the avs script.
Phew…! That was heavy – but very worthwhile!
Many thanks to the magicians at DVXuser! Do not forget to check out the original script for non-mac users



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