UPDATE: please check out our new style and download page HERE
Stay up to date by “Liking” http://www.facebook.com/marvelsfilm
UPDATE November 26th 2010: a new profile has been launched in addition to this one, check out: Marvels Cine 2.1 Panalog profile
We have worked on a Cine gamma picture style for the Canon 7D camera for the last few days, that can be compared with our PP settings for our Sony EX-1.
I think we might have a little premiere here – to our knowledge this is the first release of a Picture Style on the web for the 7D..!
Thanks to my collegue Bart Keimen (Marvels Film) for his measurements, calculations and general maths-mumbojumbo i couldn’t quite follow in the first place… 😉
The Canon 7D standard picture, also with Contrast dialed down, was too punchy for our taste as well as too saturated. With this new picture profile you can achieve a more refined “Cine” look.
This Picture Style, that can be downloaded to your camera with the EOS Utility, introduces a S-gammacurve that lifts the black levels is shadows and “low-mids” and compresses the highlights, resulting in an over-all increased latitude – and a decrease in contrast. This can be compared with a Sony Hyper Cine Gamma profile. Some viewers will translate the picture as “flat”, but it will give you much more control in post. Also, this profile is ideal for use with these particular 7D cameras that have problems with the Highlight Priority setting; the dynamic range of this profile has already been “moved” towards both highlights and blacks.
In isolation, I find that the cine gamma look is a bit more “true to life”; it handles overexposure more gracefully, and IMHO looks a little bit more like the way film handles highlights.
Since you still have control over the Picture Style settings, you can adjust the strength of the S-Curve by changing the Contrast value. Move it down to exaggerate the S-curve and move it up to flatten the S-Curve (more linear).
Marvels Film Cine-gamma S-Curve v 1.2 curvature
We have compiled a Picture Style for download. The sharpness, tint, saturation and contrast settings can still been altered.
You can download the Picture Style to the camera’s “User Def. 1” memory by using the Eos Utility as follows.
- Download the following Picture Style file to your local harddisk (one file in ZIP archive): http://www.martinbeek.net/canon7d/Marvels_Cine_Gamma_7D.zip (updated oct 23 2009)
- Unpack the zip archive
- Connect the camera through USB and switch it on in LiveView
- Start the program and select “Camera settings/Remote shooting”
- In the middle of the control screen, click “Register User Defined style”
- Select User Def. 1, 2 or 3 at the top of the new page and click the button with the Open File icon
- Select the Marvels_Cine_V1.2_rel.pf2 file
- Click on OK
- The Picture Style is now downloaded to your camera. First close the Eos Utility before you disconnect the camera
- Enter film mode and press the Picture Style selection button (the one under “Menu”) at the back of the camera
- Use the thumbweel on top of the camera to scroll through the styles; you will see “Marvels Cine 1.2 as new selectable style
- Happy shooting!
Cheers!
Martin Beek.
I am trying to add this to my 7D, but when I get it set up, I can’t change the ISO like I can in M. What am I doing wrong? I have gone through a few times, but keep getting the same results.
This is an interresting issue! I’ll test again with my 7D tomorrow since i have a shoot tomorrow evening with that camera.
I’ll get back to you a.s.a.p.
Martin.
thank you!! can’t wait to try…
This sounds great. Just loaded it on my cam. My question is, do you still suggest turning on HTP? It seems the picture style has it off (or maybe you cannot adjust that with picture style).
Thanks for this. I was really looking for someone more numbers savvy to do this like the dozens of people who came up with great EX-1 settings.
Benjamin
I personally leave HTP off at the moment, because it still produces unexpected artifacts, like vertical stripes and other patter noise at all ISOs.
Our Picture Style already has better dynamic response in the highlights – but, admitted, it’s not the same. Let’s wait ’til Canon comes up with a solution.
Martin
I just tried this picture style for the first time this evening. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong, but all the skin tones take on a weird orange or greenish tint, depending on the white balance selected. I was shooting under a variety of existing indoor lighting, including tungsten, florescent, and bright indoor halogen lamps. It was impossible for me to achieve anything close to a decent white balance with this picture style, other than going through the custom white balance process. No other white balance setting came close to being acceptable. Skin, particularly on faces, was also completely devoid of any detail, to the point where it was on the verge of appearing posterized.
Perhaps I just need to play with the contrast and tint, but something looks very wrong to me. I’m assuming you would see the same problem if it was actually something in the picture style, so I’m left wondering… what am I doing wrong?
David. You need to dial down the Hue setting to “0”. I put it on +1 (greenish hue) to emulate the EX-1 Cine color matrix. Think Fuji Film 😉
Still, remains the fact that you should manually white-balance once your start experimenting with gamma curves. The green channel is known to be problematic in the 7D (not well calibrated in factory), so manual whitebalance is always the advised procedure.
Martin
David, I tried it last night and saw the same thing. Faces appeared almost like clay and everything seemed yellow/orange. Will try dialing down the Hue (is that the same as color tone), and try again.
Thanks, Martin for making this though.
This is so weird. I’d like to find this out a.s.a.p.
Spent a few hours experimenting. Used a model. No problems here, so i am both flabbergasted and concerned.
Keep me posted!!
Martin
Martin, I have some samples to email you. What is your email address? Mine is benjamin.j.eckstein@gmail.com.
Thanks,
Benjamin
Do I feel stupid or what?
It took me some time to figure out even where the USB connector was (it’s not marked on the body and doubles as an AV connector), but I’m having trouble following your install instructions.
What does “•Start the program and select “Camera settings/Remote shooting” mean? Is this a program that’s not included in the zip file download? All I can find is the ‘marvels_cine_V1.2_rel.pf2’ file. If it’s a camera program, where is it found in the camera menus? Sorry for the stupid questions but I’m a very long-time Nikon user and this Canon 7D is the first EOS I’ve ever had & I’m unfamiliar with the menus – which I’ve looked through and can’t find anything similar to what’s described here.
I am a Sony EX1 owner/user and I use cine-gamma curves on my other Sony camera (F900R) so I am anxious to see how this curve looks.
Thanks for any tips and/or a noob step-by-step.
The program needed to upload the Picture Style to your camera is the EOS Utility included with your camera. You can also download it from the Canon support page.
Cheers
Martin
Thanks Martin, that’s all I needed. First test shots look great, nice curve – good shadow detail. Will update after some EX1/7D comparison tests this week.
Thanks a lot
Martin,
would it be possible to get the picture style in form that it could be edited? Right now I cannot load it into the picture style editor (for my own tests only).
Please contact me at my email address.
Thanks
Uwe
Thanks for your efforts Martin. Haven’t tested it much yet, but so far it looks good!
By the way, following your steps, the Cine Gamma picture style wouldn’t stay on my camera after closing the EOS Utility. Until I realised I needed to register it as a Camera User setting with the camera still connected to the EOS Utility. You might want to ad this step to your description. I’m running firmware 1.0.9, perhaps it’s a small bug in the new firmware.
Greets,
Richard
Thanks Richard, that is all correct indeed; i’ll add it to the steps a.s.a.p.
Martin
Thanks so much for this! I can’t wait to experiment.
I was very excited to try this, unfortunately you can’t download the EOS utility from the Canon site.. and since I am traveling, I can’t get a new copy of the disk. Do you know if there another way to upload them to the camera? Can it be done manually? You mention that lowering the contrast on the settings in the camera itself doesn’t work the same way…
This look sso very promising for optimizing the 7D and perhaps later the 1D mark 4 do you have any samples that show your new S-curve gamma footage?
Love your ps!!. Looks what I’ve been looking for. I’ll check it in a comercial shot next week.
At your service..!
Ps. with tungsten, the contrast should be lowered a tad – sometimes skin colors kan look posterized if too low (tungsten) light.
Martin
Very cool! But does the this 7D picture style also work well with 5D MKII??
I heard that 5D MKII picture styles do work well on the 7D but how is it the other way around?
thanks for download
my softwarte (mac) WONT let me ADD any looks with the EOS software.
the entire area is grayed out on the interface.
i tried to load the doftware off the CD that came with my camera on 2 machines and the result was the same!!!
when i called Canon , they had NO idea why this was happening…
NICE.
any ideas would be appreciated!
thanks
Thank you so much for your effort! But I do have question. Can it be that this picture style introduces a slight color shift towards green? I noticed it when I shot the same object first with “standard” and then with the new “cine marvels”? style. Since the style is locked, I could not take a closer look at it in the Picture Style Editor. I tried putting the color tone fader on -3 in the camera which did help a bit, but I am wondering if this is the way this style looks, of if it’s something strange in my 7D.
Markus. Did you download the style after novermber 1? There used to be a (deliberate) green shift there, but not as much as you picture.
The 7D is known to have problems with calibration of the green channel, so maybe you have a model that suffers from that – maybe other users of this profile can comment on that here. I can’t find the problem with my camera (luckily). Thinks like this become more apparent if you lower the contrast…
Martin
Martin,
I have your style version from October 26. But now that you pointed me in the low contrast direction, I am noticing it with other low contrast picture styles too. When I load a RAW image and apply “standard” – gray is neutral, when I apply your or any other low contrast style – gray shifts slightly towards green. Is that the problem with the green channel calibration you were talking about?
Thanks.
Markus
Is it just me or is this flattening too much? You guys are reducing the dynamic range of the camera as it won’t record complete blacks or whites and compresses all the colors into the middle. That’s why skin tones start to look weird as there is no contrast!
Mikko… please.
Try to read about the subject of dynamic range before you start commenting.
For example, watch this nice little clip someone made:
As an owner of several motion digital cameras which allow users to internally adjust gamma curves – Sony F900R, EX-1, and Varicam, I am quite familiar with this process.
Think of the entire box in the graph above as a ‘bit bucket’. You only get so many bits on a camera chip (bit bucket)and how you utilize them is essential to how much dynamic range you record. By bending the uppermost (highlights or whites) part of the curve, you increase the dynamic range by adding additional length to the curve. ‘normal’ video shows an almost straight linear curve from bottom (black) to top (white). It runs out of the graph area very quickly, and looks very much like the ‘standard’ picture style in the Canon 7D – high contrast, limited highlight detail. By adjusting the curve’s highlight area back into the ‘bit bucket’ one can suppress highlight overexposure and go a long way towards retaining the data in those highlights which are usually lost when a ‘standard’ curve is employed. The trade-off is a ‘flattening’ of the overall picture into a much less contrasty image. This is very easily fixed by tweaking the blacks and mid-tones (gamma) in either Photoshop, Final Cut Pro or any other NLE with 3-point color correction. Because you have preserved the ultimate amount of data possible, these corrections do not usually affect the image in a negative way but rather give you a much more detailed image in both the shadow and highlight areas because you can iris up into the shadow areas without over-exposing the highlights when you shoot.
Another way I’ve always looked at both still and motion digital photography is to equate it with color positive films vs negative films. Digital is exactly like shooting color positive (slides) and traditional still and motion film is usually shot with negative films. In negative emulsion films it is important to protect the shadow or dark areas whereas in positive film, one must take caution to protect the highlights. Cinematographers love to shoot film outdoors and shoot digital indoors for this reason. We are trying to level the playing field by utilizing gamma curves for highlight suppression. This then is what gamma curves like Marvel’s accomplish – with a lot less effort than it requires on broadcast digital cameras.
Hope this helps to explain things a little clearer.
Hi, the link to download the profile it’s broken.
Woops! My bad. I’ll fix it right away!
Martin
Ok! Thanks!
Works great for me.
Hi…
First, thanks for the settings.
I haven’t tested it yet, but I was just surprised you had sharpness at 3, isn’t it better to have it at zero (I’ve heard)?
Also I’m trying to match the 7d image (and my 5d too) as close as possible to my EX1… would you mind sharing your Ex1 PP settings? (I’m using the latest Ravens’ PP as of now, the one I found on Philip Bloom’s blog)
Thanks for the great help.
Ludovic.
ludovic.jolivet@gmail.com
I have been told by Canon Europe’s head of technology, that putting sharpness on “0” is not a wise thing to do, since it does some calcualtions on all colour channels too that are important for the overall image quality. I put it back one tick from the standard settings nowadays; is that 3 or 2?
You can find my EX1 profile settings (as used for a number of short movies and music videos) somewhere on this weblog. Search for MY EX1 PICTURE PROFILE.
Cheers!
Martin
I have the same issue as the first poster. Everything has gone swimmingly, and I’m very pleased with the image. Perfect for CC grading, however, I have no ISO selection, the iso is being determined by the camera. This results in a sort of “auto gain/auto exposure. In my work, this won’t work. suggestions?
Hey, that is great, about the sharpness! I was beginning to think that it was actually *softening* the image as opposed to keeping it normal – kind of like what people do to get softer portraits… no?
Shot an interview yesterday as part of a documentary on the 7D with sharpness at “2” – but i think it is still a little too much. I’ll go for “1” instead of “0” or “2”.
Had color on 2, contrast on 1 – all with Neutral profile.
Have a look here: Documentary test shot Canon 7D & Tascam D-07: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtG43GBgosk
Martin
Martin,
why did you decide to use Canon’s neutral picture style and not your own “Marvels Cine Gamma”? Not having to tweak in post since you were in a controlled environment when shooting the footage?
The lighting conditions were indeed under control. The “daylight” was tungsten light with filters. The image was already very soft; almost too soft. I did not only decide to use the neutral profile, but to throw-in some extra contrast too. Even then i’d to dial the gamma down in post because it was all as flat as can be.
Martin
I believe I have the same problem as Benjamin Eckstein (see post from October 25,2009): “Faces appeared almost like clay and everything seemed yellow/orange” when using the Marvels Cine Gamma picture style. Was the source of his problem discovered? Thanks.
Kelly.
No, that is still a mystery – as are a lot of things with the 7D internal processing – we have bought a black box that is largely undocumented. There are differences in green channel calibration because the Canon QC is (too) relaxed, which can explain the yellow/orange appearance. I use the profile mainly with daylight, with contrasty scenes. All digital video cameras, including the Red one, produce awful images w. tungsten light; lots of noise and bad skin tones.
Martin.
I’m sorry to come in so late to this discussion but I have a question that you guys may be able to help me with.
I’m using my 7D to shoot live music shows usually in small bars/clubs with not-so-great lighting. For whatever reason these places think red is the color to use for stage lighting and I find that no matter what camera I use, red light is just awful for capturing video.
Is there a picture style that anyone could recommend to get the best results in these sorts of situations where most of the light is red and usually at fairly low levels?
Thanks
Chris. That is not an easy one.
What the camera actually does to white-balance, is boost the blue channel and also the green channel to a lesser extent. Most of the noise will come from the blue channel though.
I have run into that specific problem several times (yellow and red light). If you really want to get a white-balanced pictured from it, you’ll probably notice that skin colors all go waxy and you’ll get a overall green hue. Another option is not to white balance at all; put the whitebalance on the tungsten preset and see what you can correct in post.
In other words, there is no instant solution i’m afraid.
There is one big plus: you’re using a camera that has really low noise at high ISOs, compared to a traditional video camera.
I wish you luck!
Martin
Chris,
I’d recommend creating a special picture style that desaturates the reds more than usual. I did some experimenting with it and I think you are able to capture more detail in red objects that way. You can always push the reds back to normal in post. It won’t be perfect, but I think it could help.
Shoot me an e-mail if you need help with the custom style: markusw-at-mac-dot-com
— Markus —
Thanks for the replies. I’ll work on a setting to pull down the reds and see what happens. I’m working with a new band that plays out often so I should be able to expiriment at some different venues too see if I can get some good results. Thanks – Chris
Hey guys
this is great. thanks a lot.
Martin, you wrote that because you were shooting your interview in extremely flat light, you opted not to use your profile. Im shooting a film that takes place mostly outside, with overcast sky and snow. Id hate to go out there and shoot only to find out the profile was a bad idea in such conditions.
what do you think?
also, with your profile under user def 1, can I shoot in Manual, or does it have to be in C1? I can change to your profile when in M, which makes me think this might be a stupid question.
thanks again for the help.
Aidan
Okay…the file works good in my 5d…but can’t you just get the same settings by altering the sharpness, contrast, saturations, and tone in the camera? I don’t understand why we need to go through this process when you could just post the setting? I think I’m missing something here.
Also…when I turn the camera off and back on the setting is gone and I need to re-load it. Even when I save all settings to the C1 , C2, or C3 switch. (I’m a new 5d user and it’s probably me…but nonetheless I’m not understanding this all)
Thanks for your help.
Okay….did some more testing. It looks like your setting is still there….it’s just that the name switches from “marvel” to “user 1” after I power off/on. Is this normal?
I also see that your cine-file is not merely altering the settings that can be accessed in the camera’s menu – it’s altering the underlying gamma curve. Absolutely awesome! I color grade all my work, and this is a great addition. Thanks!
Rich.
Some users have complained about skin colors appearing waxy or like clay. Someone even said that people look like plastic with this profile.
I can’t say i agree, but maybe it has something to do with other settings or particular 7D’s.
Do you experience anything like that?
Martin
You’ve said the magic word: Snow! Definitely use the cine profile! You won’t be disappointed.
Martin
Yes, I did notice that with this setting, and the contrast turned all the way down (I figured turning the contrast down was the way to go) you loose some of the texture in some colors…mainly skin tones. But that’s easily remedied by each person doing some testing of their own and adjust the contrast to their ideal settings.
Here’s something I shot over the weekend with your awesome setting: http://www.vimeo.com/9139703
I had the contrast turned down all the way and you can see the result in some of the shots. I just know now to not turn it down again.
Hi there I’m new to my 7D and loving it great deal. I wonder why the camera in usb mode tells me is “busy”, and doesn’t allow me to see anything, nor even the menu. Just “Busy”. And it’s not recognize on the mac although the iPhoto launches immediately as I plug it in. The CD with the utilities software didn’t come so I’m waiting for it. Any Idea I’d like to download the marvelsfilm profile.
Thanks to all!!!
Hi Rich.
The contrast setting now controls the S-curve of the picture setting. When dialing it down, it get’s very flat indeed!
I am going to look at your vimeo video now.
Cheers,
Martin
hi!
i’ve been using canon 450 d since 6 months (approximately)….i’ve been also trying to tweak and get 1full stop advantage of light by pic style editor and make some presets…i’ve made some presets might be useful for shooting landscape, optimizing light on the darker area and some preset for gettin advantage of 2/3 stop of light ….however the use of those presets too need some experiments under various shooting conditions (white balance issue u might get). But i think it may work. And i’m not sure whether it works for 7d or not but the file type is .pf2 so i guess it goes same with 7d too so if u wanna give a try u can mail me on defeat_the_fate@yahoo.com …i haven’t loaded yet in any web sites so u can mail me if u want…or simply u may give me some add of web site to upload those files..
keep shooting
kaalnemi
hi everyone here
those facin problem with preset issue …try +4 contrast and do try to shot the pic underexposed by 1/3 stop or 2/3 of a stop. it will work and as for the issue of white balance then u should try out shooting in colour temperature of 4200 k OR use colour bracket of your camera just need to shift the point towards blue by +3 point.
keep shooting
kaalnemi
Will this also work with 5D?
I have been told that this is indeed the case!
Martin
Hi MPJP,
As I stated in my first comment, “Okay…the file works good in my 5d.”
So yes, it works great.
Just curious how your custom picture style performs in low light? Does it change the performance of the 7D and if so, is the change positive or negative?
I personally feel that low-contrast settings are only suitable for high-contrast situations. So i would not recommend using the profile for low light shooting.
Cheers!
Martin
hi there!…
very impressed with the curve u guys made….. i’ve been experimenting with it…
tnks chears!
hey guys! I just shot a music video using this profile, and i kinda regret it now. People’s faces and skin tone looks like plastic, and there isn’t enough contrast… Please take a look at some frames pulls from the video footage.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v179/dmitriy/Imprint%20Music%20Video/
Anyone has any idea how to make everything look rich and full of color? I’m using premiere, I’ve FCP too. Any ideas would help at this point, because I’ve tried couple of methods and can’t get it to look the way i want to. If you can fix any of the frames, email them to me or upload somewhere, it would be interesting to see can be done from these. Thansk!
Put the Camera in manual mode thats the only way to access the menu
im shooting some skiing race this weekend with my new 7D …since other 2 EX-1 will be main shooting the event, i will have the freedom to experiment with the camera and try your flat style in a white scenery 🙂
ill feedback with vimeo link when its done
thx for upload
Hi ,
When i downloade the file it wont open , is it a problem with a Mac ?
Thanks Zev
No, i shouldn’t think so; i also have a Mac. I have no problem downloading and opening it.
It is a ZIP file, mind!
Martin
hi martin,
i really like this setting, however it won’t save on my 7D. it is gone after i turn the camera off. i’ve followed the directions (closed the eos utility before unplugging, etc.). it stays on the camera as long as i keep it on. any tips?
will this work with the canon rebel t1i thanks
I can’t say.
I suspect the system is identical. If you have the (same) software to upload picture styles, i’d say, just try it out!
Let us know…
Martin
Bobby, that sounds like a serious hardware problem. There is no backup/memory battery in the 7D, as it uses static flash memory inside to store all settings.
Check that you are running the last firmware and if that does not shine light on the problem, return it for inspection! This really is not normal.
Martin
thanks for your reply, martin! i cleared all of my settings on the camera and before i shut off the camera…i registered your picture style under the “camera user setting” on the camera’s menu. not sure what made the difference…but it works now. love the picture style…thanks again!
I am happy to hear that!
Cheers,
Martin
if installed could it ruin the camera or firmware
Hey guys thanks for the tutorial, its been awesom!
I’m having a hard time opening the file for my mac.
It downloads as Marvels_Cine_V1.2_rel.pf2 and not an actual zip file.
When i attempt to open it, it says i don’t have an application to open.
Any clues?
Hello Uno.
The mac is so kimd to unpack the zip into the profile file. You can now use the EOS utility to your camera.
Start the EOS Utilty, click Control Camera and look for the Upload Profile section.
Cheers!
Martin
WOW! I just used your picture style in my 7D and holy F’ing S***!!! It’s amazing the latitude I just got in color correction. Holy moly it’s like getting a new camera. Thank you sooooooo much.
This is really a brilliant piece of work.
Thanks,
Josh
Josh,
thanks for your kind words! Cheers!
Martin
Hey Martin,
What settings/profile would you recommend for a low-light or low contrast situation, or indoor tungsten-lit scenes?
Hello Dave.
In such a situation, i would use the neutral profile and not our Cine-gamma curve profile! I’d put both contrast and sharpness one peg up from the left. Also dial down the saturation, let’s say two or even three points below the zero middle position.
Shooting with tungsten is always a bit noisier than shooting with daylight, as the camera has to amplify the blue channel to balance the colors.
With this camera, i’d advise not to manually white balance, but select either tungsten or daylight from the preset white-balance settings. 3200k is perfectly OK for indoors; if the scene looks much warmer because of e.g. a fireplace or cosy warm lighting, so be it! You can always tune this in post.
If you want to manually white-balance indoors for a living-room atmosphere, rendering the cosy warm atmosphere, try white balancing on a sheet of white acrylic (plexiglas). Since plexiglas is a tad too blue, you’ll get a warmer more real-life balance. Just some thoughts…
Cheers!
Martin
Awesome! Thanks, Martin.
Hi there guys,
I had your Marvels cine Style set on my 7D but after thursday, that I was shooting a short fiction, my canon started to show a bloody white square shape in the middle of the screen. So the point is that I tried everything but I couldn’t get rid of it and had to reset the settings of the camera to zero. It didn’t work also, but i lost the profile. And from your link doesn’t seem to be working any more as it doesn’t download as a zip but a very estrange file. Any Idea how can I get it back on my Camera?
Many thanks.
Do your 7Ds have this white square in the middle in live view?
Cheers guys!
Hello Nicolas. I have no problem downloading the file, but here is the direct link: http://www.martinbeek.net/canon7d/Marvels_Cine_Gamma_7D.zip
I vaguely recall other people complaining about a green square. Sounds to a hardware problem to me; i’ve never seen it. But i must admit that i seldomly use the 7D nowadays, because of the rest i don’t like about the camera…
Martin
Hi,
I’m having trouble downloading the profile. The file comes across as Marvels_Cine_V1-3.2_rel.pf2, not as a .zip, and i can’t get in. Any help you could lend me here. Mac Snow Leopard OS.
Thanks!
Hello im.
It realy is a ZIP, but is’s probably unpacked automatically by your computer, because the .pf2 file is exactly what you need! The file is uploaded to the camera by the use of the Canon Camera tool for the 7D, that came with the camera on CDROM and is also available for download from Canon’s 7D product page.
Martin
Thank you for providing this picture style. I filled a retail store using the standard picture style and it had way too much contrast. The shadows were dark black blobs of nothing and the highlights were so blown out it was ridiculous. I was so displeased with the outcome that I scheduled a re-shoot. I used the Marvel Cine picture style in my 7D and the results were night and day. I have so much more flexibility in post and a lot of the shots didn’t even need correcting. The only change I made to the profile was my saturation. I bumped it up 1 tick. Personal preference I suppose.
Thanks again
nice review….thanks for detail…i plan to buy this one..
Thank you for the opportunity.
could use this Settings ” Picture Style with Cine-gamma” in Rebel T2i?
Wow thanks for the article it was really informative and exactly what I was searching for. I’m hopeful that you will add similar to this article.
Hey, great stuff!
I applied it to my 550D and then I upgraded my firmware from 1.0.6 to 1.0.8. I’m not entirely sure whether this has worked with 1.0.6 or not:
The picture style is not set for Movie Shooting. For photography it displays the name ‘Marvels Cine’ but in Movie mode it’s still ‘Standard’.
Any idea? 😦
Hi thanks for the information I think this should be exactly what I am looking for to fix the 7D over exposure issues. Is there an updated link file? The link no longer works, thank you!
In response to “Learn From My Custom White Balance Mistake” by Dave.
Thanks Dave. Good piece! People often complain about skintones looking plastic with the custom profiles, or the Canon cameras as a range, but this is mostly due to bad white balancing.
If the picture is too blue and you have to boost the reds (or any other automatic color balancing process does so), you end up with a disturbed balance; same of course for green and blue, but form what i’ve seen, boosting red and green channels on the Canon dslrs results in what people experience as “plastic look” – but always in combination with over-exposure.
To cut a long story short: balance on a white card people! Watch the video mentioned obove…
Martin
Hi Martin – thanks so much for these post, they are very informative. Can i use the Marvel profile for shoots in Clubs and on highly lit stages? So far nothing has worked out for this lighting situation. i have experienced blown out highlights and unsharp detail, especially when colored lights are used. anj
Hello Anj.
I suggest you use the profile in high contrast situations, so a highlit stage sounds exactly where the profile comes handy, but please stop down a bit on the highlights.
Martin
Hello!
I was searching picture profiles for the new 60D and fund this, I would like to try your cine gamma profile, do you know if it’s ok with the 60D?
thanks
Bruno
Yes! They will work fine. Also see our latest addition!
Martin
Just tryed it on the 550d…
looks really good too !!!
THX man
Hello Martin….
Read some of your stuff and you for sure look like the kind of guy that can answer a simple question.
What camera is better for video 5D mark 2 or 7D?
Thanks I really appreciate it. z
I find the 5d producing the most pleasing picture, probably due to the full frame sensor.
So, for the looks, I’d say 5d. Pro of the 7d is that it has a bit less jello, and an external monitor is easier to use because the resolution-switch is not freaking out the hdmi monitor.
I switched to the 5d and I’m not too disappointed so far!
Cheers!
Martin.
Hey, great work with the profiles. I’ve just begun to tweak my settings and love what you’ve done. Canon’s documentation leaves a lot to be desired. I am trying to open your file in the Picture style editor and get an error “Cannot load image. Subsequent editing has been disabled for this file”. Style editor version 1.7.0.0. Got any idea what I can do to get to the settings?
Thanks
Bill
In the mean time I have updated the Picture Style editor to 1.8.0, Digital Photo Pro to 3.9.2, and the Canon Utility to 2.7.3. No joy on that. I’m beginning to wonder if I can edit someone else’s files without the original image. Any clue?
Thanks
Bill
Hello Bill.
The files i provide on the website are locked indeed and can not be opened in the editor.
Martin
Martin,
I don’t mean to put you on the spot, but in the response I got you said that you were going to post an unlocked version. It looks like you decided not to do that. I’m trying to work out the corrections in post to best suit this curve and it would be a lot simpler if I could see the curve. Can’t do that on the locked file.
Thanks for all you’ve done. Let me know if you post an unlocked version.
BTW, I shot a high school choir concert the night after loading your settings and the results look great. Think – worst lighting ever – some in the dark some in the spots. Used a 7D at ISO 1250 and it looks pretty good. I’d post a link but I’m a bit embarrassed that I captured the audio with the on camera mic. In my defense, I wasn’t planning to shoot video. Oh, what the heck… the video is at http://www.youtube.com/mlimbolimbo . Nobody complain… this is my family stuff. I wish I had applied your tweak before shooting the pumpkin footage on the same site. Though that is a good example of the 7D shot at 720p 60 frames and slowed to 30.
Bill
Martin,
I’m getting a 404 on trying to download the file 😦
Tom.
Which link is it you are using? I’ve tried the most recent links and they’re all OK at the moment. Could have been a hiccup somewhere…
Martin
Thanks for the quick response Martin – the http://www.martinbeek.net/canon7d/Marvels_Cine_Gamma_7D.zip link above 404’s for me – I found more up-to-date files (I think) here though https://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/2010/12/05/new-and-updated-versions-of-the-latest-marvels-cine-picture-styles-for-canon-dslr-cameras-general-download-page-for-all-marvels-picture-styles/, so it may not be relevant (?)
Hi I’m going to buy a Canon 60D. Is it like the 7D about dowloading picture style to the eos body ???
Yes Steven. it’s identical.
Martin
The link to the profile is broken
Please visit the menu link at the top of this blog “marvels cine for canon dslr”
Cheers,
Martin
teh log is the positively good one. Thank for partitioning such great bumf out. Ill deff be cruising by more often so i an notice whats informative!
I tried clicking on the link but it says the link doesn’t exist. If there any other way I can download this? Thanks!
This is the new page with download link (and mirror link):
https://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/marvels-cine-canon/
Cheers!
Martin
Does this download for for a 5d Mark 2?
Wonderful post! We will be linking to this particularly great content on our website. Keep up the good writing.
Note if you install eos utility and don’t get a pop up window for installing a user defined style, you only need to restart your computer, then it should work. No idea why.
I found your blog web site on google and examine a couple of of your early posts. Continue to keep up the excellent operate. I simply further up your RSS feed to my MSN Information Reader. In search of forward to studying more from you afterward!
Thanks for finally talking about >Canon 5D/7D Picture Style with Cine-gamma (S) Curve – free download
Marvelsfilms Blog <Loved it!